An index to posts about the ship 'Loch Ard'

"Flotsam", from Gillian Lodge's 'Loch Ard' series.  Thanks Gillian for permission to use this lovely artwork on the blog.  Readers can check out her work at http://gillianlodge.com/index.html 

When I first sought to blog about the Loch Ard I thought I would be finished after three posts. I set myself a challenge to have it done in three months.  But the story has hooked me, so I am making no commitment about the final number of posts, or if I will even deem the collection finished.

However I am reorganising the blog, updating some bits, and breaking longer posts into multiple shorter ones.  Given that I can get sidetracked onto other historical matters I have decided to index the Loch Ard posts, this will allow my readers to follow this story more clearly than scrolling through the blog.

You can get a sense of some the material in the 'drafts' section of my blog by observing the not yet published material.  But as with most research you start a journey to one place and find other noteworthy stops and detours along the way.  Undoubtedly some of these discoveries will result in redaction or revision of the posts below, or perhaps new posts altogether.

Context

Loch Ard the last of the Clippers? - a stub

The Ship and her Cargo

Loch Ard - A ship and her manifest
The Loch Ard Peacock
Loch Ard's Lead Ingots
Loch Ard and the Carmichael Watch - not yet published

Events at 'Loch Ard Gorge'

The wrecking of the Loch Ard
Loch Ard - her dead and their burial
Loch Ard - salvage and looting
Eva and Tom an heroic tale from the Loch Ard

Later Events

Honouring Tom Pearce

A poem sequence

The wreck of the Loch Ard - a poem by W. S. of Blackwood.

Reflections on the Wreck of the Loch Ard by W. S. of Blackwood

Critique and response to the poem 

The question of authorship 

 

A musical tribute - not yet published

Associated writing

A rough ride on the Great Ocean Road

The Loch Ard Wreck - Eva and Tom

While at its core the Loch Ard story is a tragedy this component of that story is often portrayed as a romance and as such it captured the imagination the newspapers of the day.

In a previous blog post we interrupted the narrative at the point where Eva has been washed overboard and is holding onto a hen coup to keep afloat, and Tom has been capsized from his lifeboat.

We continue the narrative first from Miss Carmichael's perspective ...

Miss Carmichael and her two companions, finding the hen-coop very awkward to hold on to, as it was continually throwing over, left it for a spar which came near them, and on  this they floated into the entrance of the gorge, and then her two companions, fancying they could reach a rocky point near the entrance, left the spar and struck out for it, but the undercurrent carried them out to the sea. She still clung to the spar,  and was gradually drifted until a portion of her clothing caught a projecting point of the rocky side, and where fragments of it can be seen. It was then that, looking shoreward, she saw Pearce walking on the wreckage, which she mistook for rocks. She screamed out to him, and then lost consciousness, only recovering  her senses when he was half carrying, half dragging her to the cave ... for warmth and shelter.

The rescue of Eva Carmichael as seen in the dramatised re-enactment at Flagstaff Maritime Village.  This is back projected onto a screen of water from an fountain in the museums lake.  This clever show is well worth the visit.

Tom Pearce enters the surf to rescue Eva Carmichael who is holding onto the spar of a ship.

 And now from Tom Pearce's perspective ...

... the boat capsized, and Pearce states that when he again came to the surface he found himself under the boat. Here, he says, he remained for some time, as there was plenty of air, but this is a matter of doubt. At last he dived down and came outside the boat, holding on to the life-lines. He saw nothing about him but wreckage, but he also noticed that he had drifted into a gorge, and at the same moment the boat struck against the rocks at the side, and he then left her and struck out for the beach, where he arrived safely. He was then very much exhausted, and finding plenty of spirits on the beach, he helped himself to them, and also got something to eat. 

After being about an hour on the beach he heard somebody screaming out, and looking seawards he saw a young lady holding on to some wreckage and drifting through the gorge. He at once swam out to her, and getting hold of some of her clothing in his teeth, he brought her safely to land, and managed to drag her into the cave, where he cut some grass for a bed. She was then in an insensible state, and he tried to restore animation by pouring a quantity of brandy down her throat, and also by rubbing her body with the same spirit. She recovered somewhat, but appeared to have lost her senses, and was raving. Being exhausted, he lay down, and when he awakened he found her asleep, and left her to try and get assistance. 

He managed to clamber the side of the gorge, and at once coming upon horse-tracks, he followed them, and at last came upon George Ford, an employe of Mr. Gibson. Pearce told him that there was a lady in the caves wanting assistance, and at once went back to her, and Ford shortly after met Mr. Gibson, who sent him to the station for blankets, a lantern, and other articles he thought might be wanted, while he himself galloped off to the caves, overtaking Pearce on the way. 

Having scrambled down to the cliff, they went straight to the cave where Pearce had left Miss Carmichael, but she  could not be found. There was the grass that Pearce had cut  for her bed, but she had vanished. They searched every nook  and corner of the cave, but could find no trace of her, and by  this time it was dark. Ford had arrived with blankets and a  billy for boiling water, together with some coffee and a lantern.  Having lit the lantern, another and closer search was made in the cave for the young lady, but again without success. Mr.  Gibson then proceeded to the second cave, which is about 100  yards distant, and this was also closely searched, but again without success. Fears were now beginning to be entertained for the young lady's safety, as it was thought that in her  distracted state she might have destroyed herself, as they were  quite certain that unaided she could not have climbed the cliff.  They cooey'd continually to attract her attention. As after events  proved, this was the cause of the delay in finding her. Never having heard the Australian cooey before, she fancied that it  was the cry of some of the natives, and in mortal fear and trembling she concealed herself within a few yards of the search  party. As a last resource they tried to track her footsteps in the loose sand. They could see that she had left the cave, but  her steps were so light, and they had crossed and recrossed the  sand so often, that the tracks were quite confused, and at last  they were almost tempted to give up the search. There is in the gorge a single clump of dense ti-tree scrub, and as they were passing this, talking somewhat loudly, a voice was heard  among the bushes. Mr. Gibson at once rushed in, and found  the young lady, almost perished with cold and exhaustion, having  scarcely any clothes on. He took off his own coat and covered her up, and also put on her his own warm stockings and boots.  A fire was at once made from some of the wreckage, and in a very short time some hot coffee was in readiness, and a pannikin full of this with a good dash of brandy in it was given her, and this helped to revive her. She was wrapped in blankets and  placed before a large fire until she regained some little natural warmth, but Mr. Gibson plainly saw that by some means she  must be taken to the station, and not allowed to remain in the gorge all night. She was, however, incapable of helping herself up the almost perpendicular cliffs, and at last, when the buggy  arrived, the men succeeded in partly carrying her and partly dragging her to the top, and she was then driven to the home station and put to bed by Mrs. Gibson, by whom she has since been attended. 

Eva is assisted in her egress from Loch Ard Gorge by Tom Pearce and Mr Gibson.

Lets go back to the comment about the "Cooey", and Eva being terrified about aboriginal people. This part of Australia is a high density area for colonial violence toward aboriginal people, have a look at the University of Newcastle's Colonial Massacre Map, there are 11 recorded massacres in an arc around Warrnambool out to Portland, Hamilton and Colac, there are no recorded massacres of non-aboriginal people in the same arc.  One wonders what stories were told to would be immigrants about the indigenous inhabitants of this land.

Eva remained at the Gibson's homestead, Glenample, for some time recovering from her ordeal. But Glenample would not have been a quiet place in which to recover, a reporter from the Warrnambool Standard reports:

Mr. Gibson's house at Glenample has been be sieged by visitors since Monday ; every available inch of accommodation on his premises, huts, &c, has been occupied. So much so, that in the room where I the was sleeping on Wednesday night the reporters of Argus, Age and Telegraph lay together on the floor. Did ever the representatives of our three metropolitan, journals lie under the same blankets before?

Portraits of Eva Carmichael and Tom Pearce overlaid onto a scene of the Lord Ard Wreck.

Eva Carmichael returned to England / Ireland in August 1878, passage paid for by the Victorian Government (Geelong Advertiser, 11 July 1878)

Eva Carmichael departing aboard the steamer XXX.  The Australasian Sketcher with Pen and Pencil 31 Aug 1878.

By the last mail steamer from our shores 'Miss Carmichael's Departure' took place. This lady was, it will be remembered, one of the two survivors from the ill-fated ship Loch Ard, and was saved by Mr. Thos. Pearce, the only other person who escaped from the wreck. She was accompanied to the steamer by Mr. and Mrs. Gibson and several friends, and Mr. Thos. Pearce was also there to say good-bye. Miss Carmichael appeared to have quite recovered her health, but she was, naturally, much affected at having to say farewell to those who had been so kind to her in her great sorrow and distress. There was a very large crowd, principally of the fair sex, on board the mail steamer, who were present, apparently, from a desire to see the young lady.

Did they meet again? Here is one answer from the Sydney Morning Herald

Click here to go to Under the Lino's 'Loch Ard Index'

Loch Ard, her dead and their burial

Only four bodies were recovered from the wreck they were the bodies, of Mrs Carmichael (Eva's mother), Raby Carmichael (Eva's sister), Arthur Mitchell and Reginald Jones (both passengers).  They were placed in two graves, marked with capstan bars (see illustration below).  The bars were later replaced with marble headstones, which are still in place at the Loch Ard Gorge graveyard.

The missionary, Mr. McIntyre, provided pastoral service during the aftermath of the disaster, including the funeral service for the four people whose bodies were recovered.  Below are some notes of interest from his account to The Sydney Morning Herald on 14 Jun, 1878.

He quotes Eva's account of her struggle with her life belt.

One of the strings attached to my life-belt broke, and the belt shifting up and down forced my head under the water several times, which almost cost me my life.

That Reginald Jones (one of the buried men), according to Carmichael had foreboding about the journey.

We had a splendid passage, having encountered but one half-gale when west of the Cape of Good Hope. We were indulging the hope of all safely landing ; but it is remarkable that Reginald Jones had a dark foreboding of disaster. He often told me that he had a presentiment that he should never plant his foot on Victorian soil ; and I have repeatedly endeavoured to dispel his fears. His fears were more than verified, for I am afraid forty-nine have perished with him.  

He notes that Eva drew her lineage to royalty,

She informed me that her late mother was a Plantagenet, a descendant of King Henry VII., and that she is related to some of the Irish nobility.

McIntyre then later recounts this incident at that burial.

Before the lid of Mrs. Carmichael's coffin was nailed down, a countryman of my own, who seemed to have a "wee drap in his ee," said to his companion, " Here lies royal bluid, ma frien'. We dinna drap across a Plantagenet everyday; sae, let's jist tak a wee pickle o' her hair, by way o' a keepsake, ye ken." Whereupon they cut off a small portion of her hair, reverentially wrapped it up in paper, and seriously walked away with their treasure.

And further

The initials of the names were roughly carved with a penknife on the lids of their primitive-looking coffins, so that each body might be identified in the case of its being removed by friends or relatives
to other sepulture.

The Flagstaff Museum will note in it's 'strange but true signage', that the two buried Carmichaels were both keen pianists and were buried in coffins made of piano crates found on the shore after the wreck.

Headstone for Arthur Mitchell and Reginald Jones.  Loch Ard Gorge.

Headstone for Mrs Evory and Raby Carmichael, together with memorial for other family members lost in the wreck but whose bodies were not retrieved.  Loch Ard Gorge.

Three panels image showing (top) the route of the Loch Ard, reference to the sow and pigs is the old name for the twelve apostles, scene at the burial of the four bodies recovered (bottom left), the farmhouse (bottom right).
Source: The Illustrated Sydney News and New South Wales Agriculturalist and Grazier of 13 Jul 1878

Three panel image showing (left) the cave into which Mr. Pearce helped Miss Carmichael, (top right) the graves of the
four persons whose bodies were drifted ashore ; they are buried in two graves, with a capstan bar standing for sole memorial at the head of each. (bottom right), the gorge leading landward, and exhibits the scrub in which Miss Carmichael had hidden herself when found by the party searching.  Source: Australasian Sketcher 6 Jul 1878

Despite McIntyre delivering a short address at the funeral from the words—"And the sea
gave up the dead which were in it" (Rev. xx., 13), the sea proved unwilling to allow the burial of any other crew or passengers.  Some of their bodies were seen from the cliffs, and some even identified on the basis of these observations.  But conditions did not allow for the bodies to be recovered. The Article in Illustrated Sydney News and New South Wales Agriculturalist and Grazier reports:

The dead bodies have drifted into the bights and indentations west of Pearce Inlet, and all present a mutilated appearance. One stout-built bald-headed man is believed to be Dr. Carmichael, while the other is evidently that of a sailor who was transfixed by the falling mast, as a portion his bowels are protruding from the back. These bodies present a dreadful sight as they are tossed to and fro by the heavy surf ; the rags still clinging to them give the the appearance of stuffed figures most horrible to look upon. The body of the female is conjectured to be that of Mrs. Stuckey, as she was the only lady with fair hair on board the unfortunate vessel. A man from town has been living on the coast for some days engaged in looking out for the corpses of Mr. and Mrs. Stuckey and in all weathers he may be seen religiously carrying out his instructions. I am of opinion that some of the bodies have been washed into the subterranean cave known as the Blow Hole. The entrance to this cannot be observed from the land, but about 500 yards inland among the scrub there is a huge hole about fifty yard long by twenty wide, with sides running vertically down to a depth of about sixty feet. Here the sea rushes in with terrific force through the channel connecting it with the ocean, and after spending its fury against the rocky sides of the hole, passes on through another cave which penetrates further inland, but to what extent it impossible to estimate. Should any of the bodies have been washed in here, they would never be extricated. 

A telegram received subsequently states that dead bodies have been seen in this place, but they could not be recovered.

The Australian Maritime Museums Council notes that -

Some days after the wreck about 12 bodies were seen washed into a blowhole to the west of the Loch Ard wreck site. They were all covered in a ‘ghostly green glow’. (true story: the ship was carrying phosphorous matches)

These matches are listed as vesta or lucifera in the ships manifest, see my previous blog.

Cover of Australasian Sketcher showing an attempted body recovery, note the body floating in the water.
Source: Australasian Sketcher.

The following text accompanied the above image in the Australian Sketcher of 3 Aug 1878.

DESCENDING THE CLIFF. 

The attempted recovery of bodies from the wreck of this unfortunate vessel was rendered a most difficult and dangerous operation by the nature of the cliffs, which are at this part perfectly perpendicular, and at places even overhanging. The only means of getting down at such places is by being lowered over the cliffs by a rope. But it was then found to be quite impossible, while hanging by a rope over the heaving sea, to do anything towards the recovery of the body which was tossed like a broken seaweed by the wave beneath, and we believe that it was not found practicable to recover any by this means. The sketch of our artist depicts the descent of the cliff by a rope of a man who was locally known, from his odd dress, by the name of "Robinson Crusoe."

Click here to go to Under the Lino's 'Loch Ard Index'

Loch Ard wreck - salvage and looters

I assume that salvage from shipwrecks was an important consideration and for this reason the newspapers of the day published extensive manifests (see my previous blog post).  The papers then would go on to report on the likelihood of return from a salvage operation.  There was also interest in the looters or wreckers.

Miller and Matthews (who have a share with Mr. Howarth and two or three others) arrived at Cobden on Friday, 14th June, en route to the wreck. They keep a sharp look out after the wreckers, who have completely outwitted police and customs officials, and plundered cargo to an amazing extent. At the Sherbrooke River there is an open beach about half a mile long, on which much of the cargo was washed ashore, consisting principally of broken harmoniums and numberless cases of wax vestas ; also a large quantity of furniture, table tops, and other articles, but these were speedily removed
by persons who came down from Port Campbell, Scott's Creek, and other places with carts and pack horses. It is a well-known fact that hundreds of pounds' worth of goods have been conveyed away by people who honestly believed they had a perfect right to all they could lay hands upon, provided the police did not catch them. A case of toys and another of Birmingham jewellery found their way up to Cowley's Creek.

Clearly some drapery was retrieved as the Geelong Advertiser 13 July, 1878 ran salvage sales.  Such sales are a common 'hit' if one searches for "Loch Ard" on Trove.

But retrieving material from the Loch Ard was dangerous business.  The following report from The Argus was repeated in several papers.

A selector at the Gellibrand River, named [John] Borlace, is missing under circumstances that lead to the supposition that he had lost his life in endeavouring to recover wreckage on the Gellibrand beach. He left his home on Thursday morning, telling his wife he would return about 10 o'clock. His dog came home about two hours afterwards, but although every search has been made, Borlace has not been seen since. He was traced into the water at the beach, and it is supposed in endeavouring to recover wreckage he has been carried away by the drawback in the surf.

Click here to go to Under the Lino's 'Loch Ard Index'

Loch Ard - the last of the clippers?

The Loch Ard was the last of the clippers to run passengers to Australia.  While some commentators may note the tragic loss of life as the cause for the clipper route demise, the Loch Ard was not the wreck with the greatest body count.

Rob Mundle in his recent (2016) book, Under Full Sail (ABC) traces the emergence and decline of the clippers that ran the England to Australia run during the gold rush and beyond.  He does not mention the Loch Ard, and perhaps for good reason, the era of the clipper had passed, and tragic though it was the Loch Ard disaster was probably not the catalyst for its end. Mundle gives two reasons,  (1) the rise fo steam powered ships like the SS Great Britain that were not subject to the vagaries of the wind, and (2) the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869, which could reduce distance traveled by as much as 3750 nautical miles (Mundle: p, 322).  Due to the nature of the winds in that part of the world the Suez was not negotiable by sail.

Click here to go to Under the Lino's 'Loch Ard Index'

The Loch Ard Peacock

Two items aboard the Loch Ard were destined for display at the Melbourne International Exhibition in 1880.  This Peacock was one of them, I'm not sure what the other one was, although other items of Milton Pottery were in the hold. An exhibition catalogue from 1880 is available for perusal, but it does not mention the lost peacock.

The Loch Ard Peacock at Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum.  Photograph by Simon Hamlet.

The peacock now described as the Loch Ard Peacock would have once been labelled a Minton Majolica Peacock.  Minton referring to the manufacturing house and majolica referring to the type of glaze used.  Its creator was the French animal sculptor, Paul Comolera.  In 1873 Comolera kept a live peacock in his studio to inform his production of this piece (The Australian).  Reports of the number of peacocks manufactured to this pattern vary, with published estimates between 8 and 20.

Other examples of the peacock are held at:

• The Museum of Applied Arts and Sciences, Sydney (acquired in 1984 for its opening in 1988)
• The Walker Art Gallery in Liverpool (acquired 1891)
• Christie's listed one for auction in 2010

Remarkably the Loch Ard Peacock washed ashore in Loch Ard Gorge mostly intact, two days after the sinking of the Ship.  It was known to have come ashore and was identified for what it was even though salvaging rights were not yet decided.  This indicates that the crate would have been opened.

Salvaging rights to the wreck were sold at public auction 10 days after the wreck, by which time some of the material which had washed ashore had been washed out again in another storm.  Fortunately the peacock been moved beyond the reach of the following storms.

The Peacock is the most valuable shipwreck artefact in Australia, valued at $4 Million dollars.  It is one of very few artefacts listed on the Victorian Heritage Register.  The Heritage Register normally lists buildings.

The list below is a highlight list for the artefact since its recovery.

• 1878 - Retrieved from the wreck, owned by the Miller family of Geelong.
• 1935 - Displayed at Melbourne National Museum Exhibition - on loan.
• 1943 - Purchased by Ridley-Lee of Hiedleberg
• 1974 - Put up for auction during the sale of the Ridley-Lee estate but failed to reach the $4500 reserve.
• 1975 - Purchased by Flagstaff Hill for $4500, in part by public subscription by the people of Warrnambool.
• 1980 - Displayed at the Royal Exhibition Building (Melbourne) centenary celebrations.
• 1988 - Displayed at the Victorian Exhibition at Expo 88, Brisbane
• 2010 - Entered into the Victorian Heritage Register.

return to the Under the Lino : Loch Ard Index

Loch Ard's Lead Ingots

A lot of lead

Lead ingots at Flagstaff Maritime Village.  Photograph by Simon Hamlet.

In another post detailing the ships manifesto lead ingots appear twice in the lists, in the first list as "pig lead, 50 tons" and in the second as "994 pigs and 37 rolls of lead."  825 of the ingots have made their way to Flagstaff Hill.  Each ingot weighs approximately 59 kg and has the words "PONTIFEX AND WOOD LONDON" clearly 'stamped' into the metal.

Following the initial salvage operation in 1878, the location of the wreck seemed to surprisingly fall out of public knowledge until it was rediscovered in 1967.  Following this rediscovery, looters collected a lot of the metal, until a police investigation managed to retrieve much of it.

The Woman's Weekly of 1972 writes 

Five years ago the clipper's iron hull was found in 70ft. of water, and it was blown open in 1969. Rival groups of abalone divers disputed a cargo of lead, copper, and minting metal - estimated to be worth about $50,000 - until the Commonwealth Receiver of Wrecks took control of the wreck and all salvage work.

The lead was then kept in a government store until being presented to The Flagstaff Maritime Village (Warrnambool City Council) in 1984.

Victoria Collections provided some insight into the large volume of lead on board.

Subsequent classification has rendered this section of cargo as “Lead Ballast”. This could be true. The international price per ton of lead ore plunged from a high point of £17 in 1853 to a low of £8 in 1882. The cheaper price of lead at the time of the vessel’s loading in early 1878 may have meant it was considered as an alternative to other ballast material (traditionally stone) for the journey to Melbourne. 

Line ships generally returned to Britain laden with Australian wool. Even though wool bales were “screwed in” to the hold to less than half their “pressed weight”, they still made an awkwardly light cargo for the passage around the Horn. The concentrated weight of lead pigs along the keel line would help steady and centre the ship, and perhaps the artefacts in this case were to be retained for this purpose, rather than being sold on to the ready colonial market. 

However this is conjecture. Demand for building materials in the gold and wool rich Colony of Victoria was high in the 1870s, and much of the LOCH ARD cargo was intended for the Melbourne International Exhibition in 1880, which was another example of buoyant economic conditions. In the nineteenth century lead was valued for its density (high ratio of weight to volume), flexibility (relative softness for working into shape), and durability (corrosion resistant and waterproofing properties). It was used for pipes and water tanks, roof flashing and guttering, window sealing and internal plumbing. Many large private residences and new public buildings were at planning or construction stage in the colony during this period. The LOCH ARD lead ingots could equally have been destined for this ready market.

Murder of Charles Alfred Owen of Yandilla - 1864

Introduction

Recent tinkering in Trove has been focussed on uncovering the story of the murder of Charles Alfred Owen, of Yandilla, Queensland, on 29th April 1864. Alexander Ritchie was tried for the deed in July 1864, and having been found guilty was executed by hanging in August of the same year.  He was the first person hanged at the Toowoomba Gaol. 

These events occurred in a region of Queensland now known as the Southern Downs, Leyburn is 67 km west of Warwick and Yandilla is a further 41 km. It is my home region and therefore of interest.

This post provides a simple narrative of the events as derived from the court transcripts published in the newspapers of the day and other sources on Trove. The chronology is broken into three segments, (1) events prior to 29th April 1864, which may provide some context for the events of that day; (2) a detailed recount of the day on which Owen was murdered and (3) events following the day of the murder which led to the execution of Alexander Ritchie.

Charles Alfred Owen: a brief sketch

Charles Alfred Owen was both a manager at Yandilla Station, and a Justice of the Peace.  He was awarded his Commission of the Peace in 1861 (Moreton Bay Courier, Feb 14, 1861), this commission allowed him to conduct a court of petty sessions, which we was doing on 29th April 1864.

He [Owen] sailed for Australia in 1853, under an engagement with the Peel River Company, in the barque Tory, which was wrecked at Port Stephens. It was afterwards discovered that the vessel had been wrecked purposely, and the captain and mate were in consequence condemned to penal servitude. Mr. Owen landed in Australia with nothing but a shirt and trousers, and no shoes or stockings. With the rest of his property he lost, when the vessel broke up, letters of introduction to the Messrs. Gore. He went to the Peel River with Captain Price, and having received fresh letters of introduction from home, he was, after a time, made superintendent of the Yandilla cattle station, and afterwards became general manager with a share in that fine pastoral property. (Sydney Morning Herald, May 7, 1864)

At the time of his murder Owen had been married to Rebecca Elizabeth Owen (nee Campbell) of Redbank, for nearly two and a half years. They had recently welcomed a son, who would have been ten months old.  Owen was 36 years old.

Owen is consistently portrayed as a fair and kind man. 

PRIOR to 29th of APRIL 1864

Four years prior to the murder of Owen, Ritchie had been employed at Yandilla Station, but was dismissed.

Ritchie was employed on the North Branch portion of the Yandilla run about four years ago, having been engaged by Mr. J. Pierce, the overseer. The man was dismissed for misconduct, upon which he summoned the overseer before the Police Court for the amount of the work for which he contracted. Ritchie lost the case; but Mr. Owen had nothing to do with the matter, beyond being the manager of the stations, and refusing to pay money to which his overseer, backed by the Court of Petty Sessions, declared was not due to the man. (Queensland Times, May 10, 1864)

This ‘misconduct’ seems to be for dodgy building i.e. “for the erection of hut, which fell down previous to being occupied” (Toowoomba Chronicle, May 5, 1864). However, fifty years later Ben Bolt writes the following contrary observation.

Ritchie had put up some huts on the head station, and a chimney on one of these had been a cause of dispute, being out of plumb — in fact Alec, must have taken the Leaning Tower of of Pisa as a model— and Owen had made a deduction as a mark of respect for Ritchie's new style of architecture. Parenthetically, it may be put on record that when that hut and several others in after years crumbled under the ravages of time and the white ants, that chimney stood solitary and inclined.

So Ritchie carries resentment not just to the Yandilla Station but to the court for his loss. This loss, which amounted to £20, seems to be a trigger for how events unfolded on the 29th April. There were reports of Ritchie making threats toward Owen in the preceding weeks. 

In the weeks leading up to the 29th April, Ritchie was working as a fencing contractor on a government paddock.  He employed three other people in that team, Reuben Threcker (or Thacker), Billy Button and a character referred to as ‘Stuttering Jack’ (Darling Downs Gazette, May 9, 1914).  They had a timber getting camp about 3½ miles from Leyburn on the Yandilla Road.

Ritchie had a house in Leyburn, a two bedroom ‘humpy’, which he shared with his wife, Mary Ann Ritchie, and his mother-in-law, Eliza Vowles.

Leyburn seemed to have two pubs, both run by women (in the court transcripts at least). ‘Mrs Bell’s’, or the Golden Fleece Hotel, and ‘Mrs Murray’s’, or the Royal Hotel. The Golden Fleece not longer exists, but the Royal Hotel is still extant.  The Royal was originally built for James Murray in 1863, but he died from excessive alcohol consumption six  months later, hence it being listed as ‘Mrs Murrays’, reasons for Charles Bell’s pub being referred to as ‘Mrs Bell’s’ are less clear.  It is also not clear why Richie was not welcome at Mrs Murrays,

… the prisoner and his men used to go to Bell's house ; they had not been at Mrs Murray's for a long time ; (Testimony of Julia Cumming, Darling Downs Gazette, Jul 14, 1864) 

The drama of the day of the murder will include events where Ritchie is at both of these pubs.

FRIDAY  29th April

Owen is in Leyburn in his role as a Magistrate to conduct the Petty Sessions, he is accompanied by Thomas Hanmar of Talgai, who acts as the second J.P.

… Three or four cases were disposed of, amongst the number Ryan v. Hayes, for illegally detaining a mare. In this case the Bench returned a verdict in favor of the plaintiff. (The North Australian, May 17, 1864)

Alexander Ritchie was seen at the Mrs Murray’s pub in Leyburn, around midday. He harassed Julia Cumming, a worker at the pub, for alcohol “on tick” and became verbally aggressive when she was refused him.

Mr Owen attends Mrs Murray’s pub, on a lunch break from his duties at court. Owen and Ritchie have a disagreement on the pub veranda, Ritchie being of the opinion that Owen owed him £20. Owen refused him the money and Ritchie is heard to make threats toward Owen over the course of the afternoon, e.g.

"B— the court and the b— magistrates ; they ought to be shot, and they will be shot yet that b—y wretch owes me £20, and if he does not pay me I'll have it out of him in a day or two." - (Testimony of Keely, Brisbane Courier, July 14, 1864)

Ritchie asks his wife for 5 shillings, which she provides. Ritchie asks Mrs Bell for ‘powder’ and she says she has none.  He sources a 16 ounce flask of powder from Gray, minus two charges.  He pays 4 shillings for this. Ritchie returns home with the powder, he dismantles a single barrel gun in front of his mother-in-law, wraps the gun in a piece of calico from an old tent and straps it to the front of a saddle on a horse he then rode away on.  He said he was going to shoot some ducks.

Ritchie is seen on horseback leaving Leyburn around 3:30 pm. He was also seen on the road between Yandilla and Leyburn on the day of the murder firing at trees by way of "ball practice," (The Brisbane Courier, May 7, 1864)

Around 4pm, Owen leaves Leyburn in the company of Rev. Thackeray, who is sitting beside him on a two horse buggy. Three other men on horseback, Connor, Moloney and Ryan, (all workers at Yandilla) are sharing the road with him.  Owen catches up with Moloney and Ryan, about two miles down the road between Leyburn and Yandilla.

Ritchie’s is seen by his workers on the road to Yandilla about 4:30 pm, and he asks Thacker how far ahead of him Owen was on the track. Thacker notes that he had the gun with him and it was assembled.  Ritchie is riding Thacker’s horse.

About 5pm Ritchie speaks to George Clay asking about the location of Mr Owen’s buggy and how many were travelling with him. Charles Clay also observes Ritchie following Owen in the buggy. Charles Clay later finds a piece of calico consistent with the cloth Ritchie used to wrap the gun, and a bullet hole in a tree.

Around 6pm, or 15 or 20 minutes after sundown, a shot is fired from behind the buggy and Owen slumps and drops the reins, the horses bolt at the report of the gun, and the reins having been dropped the carriage careers down the road where it is stopped by a large tree. Thackeray is thrown from the vehicle, but is uninjured.  Thackeray brings Owen’s body to the ground whereupon Owen dies. 

A man (it is assumed the man it Ritchie) is seen 50-100 yards behind the buggy and he canters away into the bush on horseback after the shot is fired. The people in attendance do not give chase, instead they attend to Owen.

Reports prior to the trial suggest that a gunman comes up to the buggy and shoots Owen from close range.

... a horseman rode up behind the carriage, and, placing a gun close to Mr Owen's head, blew out his brains, and immediately made off. Mr Thackeray was so surprised at the report of the shot, the body falling forward, and the horses bolting, that he can scarcely remember what took place : the murderer was not identified by him. (Darling Downs Gazette, May 5, 1864)

Whether the shot was close range or from further away the result is the same. The post-mortem report will later be heard in court:

“I found a bullet wound on the right side of the back of the neck, the wound went through the spine about an inch below the skull, smashing the second and third cervical vertebrae into several pieces, and passing through the mouth at the back, wounding the tongue and smashing one of the front teeth; the wound was produced by a bullet, and was the cause of death.” (Brisbane Courier, July 14, 1864)

On the same day, eight in the evening, Ritchie comes via the tent that his fencing team were staying in.  Thacker’s testimony reads;

“the horse was then all covered with white lather ; he had a gun with him then ; he came up to the door of the tent ; he said, “I have seen Mr. Owen, and I have shot the devil” ; that is all he said to me ; he stopped there a bit, and then he went homewards ; I heard the prisoner say about a week before this that Mr. Owen owed him some money for putting some huts up, and said, " if I don't got the money I'll have his life."  (Brisbane Courier, July 14, 1864)

Post April 29

The week after April 29

SATURDAY 30th APRIL

Ritchie is arrested having been found either in or under his bed at home, having shaved off his beard to make himself less recognisable as the man seen on the road. His wife lies about his absence from the house, she also buys him a new hat, having burnt the old hat, which linked him to the crime scene. 

Newspaper reports about Mrs Ritchie seem contradictory, some report on a woman in custody who is going to trial for accessory to murder.

ARRIVAL OF PRISONERS UNDER ESCORT.— ON Tuesday, Mary Ann Ritchie, from Leyburn, … received in the lockup Toowoomba, en route for Brisbane Gaol, under warrants of commitment for trial. The woman Ritchie is the wife of the man now awaiting his trial for the murder of Mr C. A. Owen, and she stands charged as an accessory to the murder both before and after the fact. We have it from unquestionable authority, that the woman has admitted she cast; the bullets for her husband, and further that she burnt her husband's hat ... after his return home— these admissions bring her within both categories set forth in the warrant. (Darling Downs Gazette, May 26, 1864)

I could find no record of that trial in the newspapers.  Another report gives the impression of a woman at large refusing to visit her condemned husband.

There is a rumour that Mrs. Ritchie, the wife of the murderer who is yet scarcely cold in his grave, is about to be married. Without vouching for the truth of this statement, I may safely state that a more heartless woman than this creature is, by all accounts, could scarcely be found on the face of Creation. Ritchie was anxious to see his wife before his execution ; when she received the communication, her reply was, ' I have had one tramp already to Brisbane on his account, and I'll not take another." God help the man who yokes his fate with that of such a woman? (Darling Downs Gazette, Aug 11, 1864)

Dr. Sachse, the coroner, and Dr Burke dispatch to Yandilla.

SUNDAY 1st MAY

Burke arrives before Sachse, and seeks to start proceedings in the absence of the coroner.

Dr. Burke. J.P. arrived at Yandilla on Sunday and as there was no Coroner, he intended holding a magisterial enquiry, and had empanelled a Jury when the Coroner from Warwick arrived, who said that an enquiry held on a Sunday was illegal. At this time, the report was spread that the prisoner had escaped from the cottage where he was confined — he was noticed by some females running across the plains towards the Condamine — a man named Reid overtook him and knocked him down with a whip handle, another person secured him, but in doing so the prisoner nearly bit off his finger.  

At twelve, midnight, on Sunday, the jury were summoned by the Warwick Coroner to view the body, and adjourned until nine o'clock on Monday morning, at which time Dr. Sachse arrived, likewise Mr. Murphy, Inspector of Police, from Toowoomba. Dr. Sachse then empanelled a jury of seven, who viewed the body and selected Captain Vignolles as their foreman. The funeral was then proceeded with, and a more melancholy sight I never witnessed ; every man, woman and child followed, and all seemed sorrowful. The Rev. Mr. Thackeray read the burial service in the Church. The body was carried to the grave by six of the oldest employees, and deposited at the western side of the Church. 

A few hours after the inquest was resumed, and after the examination of a great many witnesses, the inquiry was brought to a close at 12 p.m. on Tuesday night. While the jury retired to consider their verdict, the prisoner said that he desired to make a statement. His request was complied with, and the jury reentered the room, when he stated that he took the gun and overtook the man Ryan, to whom he gave it, saying also, "Ryan gave me 5s. and five noblers on Friday, to meet him on the road, and assist him to shoot Mr. Owen. With the 5s. I purchased the powder, after I gave him (Ryan) the gun. I immediately returned towards Leyburn." This statement not being credited, the jury returned a verdict against Alick Ritchie for wilful murder, and against William Button and Reuben Thacker for being accessories before the act.  

Ritchie, although assuming weakness of intellect on the Sunday during the time the inquest lasted, appeared to be taking great notice of the witnesses who swore to him as being the man who committed the crime, and also as to the identity of the horse. (North Australian, May 17, 1864)

MONDAY 2nd MAY

Funeral of Charles Owen.

Mr. Owens was buried in the little churchyard on the head station … followed to the grave by about 200 people— the majority belonging to the station — and many of whom appeared much depressed at the occurrence. (Toowoomba Chronicle, May 5, 1864)

Inquest into the murder is begun by the coroner.  Seventeen witnesses were examined and some gave depositions.

… if all accounts received are true, the coroner has conducted himself in a most extraordinary manner, even going so far as confining witnesses who were perfectly ready to afford evidence. It is to be hoped the Government will institute an enquiry into the circumstances. (Brisbane Courier, May 7, 1864) 

This holding of witnesses who were willing to testify, led to a conflict between Sachse and the Police Magistrate:

The inquiry brought the coroner, Dr. Sasche [sic], a German, into conflict with the police magistrate, Mr. J. C. White. Dr. Sasche [sic] had peremptorily ordered two witnesses into the lockup, although there was no evidence of their unwillingness to give evidence, and White remonstrated with him on his unBritish methods. Sasche [sic] then threatened to put the P. M. under arrest if he interfered with him during, the discharge of his duties as coroner. (Truth, August 27, 1916)

This behaviour by Sachse was even listed for mention in the Legislative Assembly of the day.

MR. GROOM asked the Attorney General — "Whether his attention has been directed to the conduct of Dr Sachse, coroner for the police district of Drayton on the recent inquest on Charles Alfred Owen, Esq and to his imprisonment of two witnesses, who, without such arbitrary measures were prepared to give evidence. If so, is any and what action to be taken in reference thereto?"
The ATTORNEY GENERAL answered — My attention has not been officially drawn to the conduct of Dr Sachse on the occasion referred to. Upon complaint, properly made to myself officially immediate action will be taken in reference thereto. (Brisbane Courier, May 13, 1864)

The following verdicts emerged from the coroners investigation.

A verdict of wilful murder was returned against Alexander Ritchie. William Button and Reuben Thacker were also stated by the jury to be accessories to the murder. The latter man has turned approver. Dr. Sasche [sic], the Coroner, threatened to put Mr. J. C. White, P.M., of Warwick, under arrest for endeavoring to obtrude evidence which he (the Coroner) deemed unnecessary. (Brisbane Courier, May 6, 1864)

Regina v. Ritchie, July 1864.

The matter came before the Toowoomba Circuit Court, on 14 July.  It was one of the cases in a large bundle of cases that will lead Justice Lutwyche to refer to this particular time as ‘the Black Assize’.

One of the most enlightened Judges that ever sat upon the Bench of justice, found himself imperatively called upon on Tuesday last, or the termination of the Toowoomba Assize, over which he had presided, to mark his sense of the increase of crime in the Western District, by attaching to it the indelible stigma of "The Black Assize."
Certainly, the calendar, both numerically and in the gravity of the offences charged was startling. The number of prisoners committed during the recess, from January Assize, was forty-five, although not one-half of that number were placed upon their trials. The offences included inter alia, murder, manslaughter, stabbing, mail robbery, forgery and uttering, horse stealing and robberies in dwellings. These crimes are certainly sufficient to bring odium upon any district, and doubtless much of tho opprobrium unjustly falls upon Toowoomba, in which town the Assize is held. It is simple justice, however, to the inhabitants, to point out to those at a distance, that a reference to the calendar will, at one glance, prove Toowoomba to be almost crimeless, our sister town of Ipswich taking the lead in this uneviable notority, by a majority of six to one. The mass of crime, shown by the calendar, flows in upon us from the enormous western district — larger in area than England — which is accorded but a miserable amount, of police protection. This district affords a wide field for the indulgence of unrestrained passion, and for carrying out the criminal views of the unscrupulous and designing. The overlander, also, from the adjacent colonies, crosses the Border with the avowed purpose of commencing a fresh career of crime in Queensland. Judge LUTWYCHE, making all allowance for these facilities for the commission of crime, could not disguise it from himself, nor conceal it from the jury, that crime was more rife, and of a more serious character hove than in any other district in the colony. This his Honor attributed to the want of religious and moral training in the community, requiring united efforts to be made before any good could be affected. He hoped that those who had the greatest power — that was the greatest means — would do all in their power for the spread of this religious and moral feeling throughout the community. His Honor also trusted that, if God spared his life until January next, he should not preside over so black an assize as he had presided over on that occasion. We endorse every word uttered by his Honor and trust that those who take an interest in the well-being of the community will, putting their shoulder to the wheel, further the advancement of moral and religious training as angst the rising generation. (Darling Downs Gazette, July 21, 1864)

Transcripts of proceedings can be found in The Brisbane Courier, The Darling Downs Gazette, and The Toowoomba Chronicle. Readers interested in the makeup of the legal team and the jury can refer to these.  Thirteen people were challenged as jury members, the majority or all of these by the prisoner (the transcripts disagree on this matter).  The following witnesses were called:

Witnesses in order of appearance

Stephen John Burke, qualified medical practitioner at Drayton.
William Harris, Sub-inspector of Police, Drayton.
Constable Peter Gallagher, Warwick Police.
Adam Colquhoun, a shepherd at Yandilla station.
Julia Cummin, cousin of Mrs Murray.
Mary Keely, barmaid and parlourmaid in the employ of Mrs Murray.
Richard Thackeray, a clergyman of the Church of England
Patrick Connor, overseer at Yandilla,
John Ryan, employee at Yandilla.
James Moloney, role is not clear
William Gray, resident of Leyburn
Eliza Vowles, resident of Leyburn, mother-in-law of the prisoner
George Clay, son of Charles Clay, resident at Forest Station.
Charles Clay, resident at Forest Station.
Reuben Threcker, splitter and fencer in the employ of Ritchie
William Button, splitter and fencer in the employ of Ritchie
John Pearce, overseer Yandilla Station
Patrick Liddy, store keeper, Leyburn
William Harris … Sub-inspector of Police, Leyburn.

The case for the Crown having been put, Mr Blakeney the assigned defence elected not to put a case for the accused.

The Jury decided on a guilty verdict within ten minutes and Lutwyche passed sentence.

His HONOR, in passing sentence, said : Alexander Ritchie, you have been found guilty by a jury of your country, who have given a most patient attention to your case of the crime of murder — a verdict in which I entirely concur, so fully satisfied am I of its justness. A more cold blooded act I have seldom had to deal with in my capacity of a Judge. Your conduct, I hope, will find very few imitators in the colony. It would be useless to say more to you now than to implore you sincerely to employ short time which remains to you upon earth in listening to the exhortations of those reverend gentlemen who will prepare you for the world to come, for I can hold out to you no hope of mercy on this side of the grave. The sentence of the law is, that you be taken from the place where you are to the Toowoomba Gaol, from whence you came, and there at such time as his Excellency the Governor with the advice of his Executive Council shall appoint, or at such other place and time as his Excellency the Governor with the advice of his Executive Council shall appoint, be hanged by the neck until you be dead, and may God, in his infinite mercy, have mercy on your soul. (Brisbane Courier, Jul 16, 1864)

Execution of Ritchie, 1 August, 1864.

Ritchie’s sentence was enacted on Monday, 1 August 1864.  He was the first prisoner to be executed in the Toowoomba Gaol. I refer to the report in The Darling Downs Gazette of August 4, 1864:

… From the time that the last earthly sentence was pronounced, Ritchie persistently denied his guilt and any admission conveying contrary import can be gathered, only from his theory in his cell, that any man under certain circumstances was justified in committing a similar act, and that it was borne out by Scripture ; or his expressions upon the scaffold, that he was guilty in the eyes of man but not guilty in the eyes of God. Be that as it may, his guilt was manifest, and he has proved to be adjudged before a tribunal that cannot err.  

This being the first execution that had taken place in Toowoomba, it became necessary for certain preparations to be made to carry out the sentence of the law, and directions were given for that purpose by the High Sheriff, E. H. Halloran Esq., who had remained in Toowoomba from the termination of the Assize, in discharge of his official duties.  

The usual structure for public executions had been erected within the western end of the new Gaol, three sides of the erection being enclosed with glazed calico. A shell lay at its foot to carry away the remains when justice should have been satisfied.  

The attendance of the Revds. Mr. Hart and Dr. Nelson, since the condemnation of the criminal, had been incessant ; but, without wishing to judge, apparently resultless. During the whole of Sunday night the latter gentleman was in the cell of the prisoner, and in the morning was joined by the Revd. Mr. Hart.  

The hour appointed for the execution of the prisoner was eight o'clock. Before that time had arrived the prisoner's irons had been struck off, the warrant read and the pinioning performed. Shortly after eight o'clock the melancholy procession moved from the condemned cell and filed into the yard in which the scaffold stood erected. The prisoner's demeanour if not defiant was bold and determined and he marched to the gallows foot and ascended the scaffold without hesitation or assistance, preceded by the executioner, whose head was enveloped in black crape. After a slight pause the prisoner came forward and made the following address : — "Gentlemen, I am innocent of this charge in the sight of God, but not of men. God has put this punishment upon me for other sins of which I have been guilty, but of this I am innocent, and may God have mercy on my immortal soul. I trust you will allow me a few minutes to say a prayer." — The prisoner then with the firmness and fervour of a martyr repeated the prayer, commencing — " Oh Jesus Lamb of God, who taketh away the sins of the world &c." Concluding his address as follow : — Gentlemen, I now bid you all goodbye ; it will be a warning I hope not to keep bad company. I am guilty in the sight of man, but not guilty in the sight of God ; and I cannot say with a clear conscience anything which should lead to the charge being brought against any one. That is all I have to say."  

In a few seconds the drop fell and Andrew [sic] Ritchie was but as a clod of the valley. The fall was terrific being upwards of ten feet, the criminal dying instantaneously.  

After hanging twenty minutes, Dr. Stacy declared the body dead, when by order of the Sheriff, the body was cut down and placed in a shell at the foot of the gallows, and was subsequently conveyed to the cemetery. The usual certificate was signed by the proper offices and certain gentlemen present, to the effect that the terms in the warrant of execution had been carried out. 

Within the walls of the Gaol only about thirty were admitted. Without the walls, the assemblage was large, some taking to the trees as a place of 'vantage. To the shame of their sex be it said, upwards of a dozen women mingled with the crowd.  

This just but tragic event has passed away ; may it be long ere the disgusting hangman's office be again required within the walls of Toowoomba Gaol.  

Andrew [sic] Ritchie according to his own account was 26 years of age, born in Scotland and brought up in Belfast ; he removed from thence to Liverpool from whence he immigrated to this colony.

List of Sources in date order

COMMISSION OF THE PEACE. (1861, February 14). The Moreton Bay Courier (Brisbane, Qld. : 1846 - 1861), p. 2. Retrieved April 16, 2019, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article3721364 

Family Notices (1861, November 22). Queensland Times, Ipswich Herald and General Advertiser (Qld. : 1861 - 1908), p. 2. Retrieved April 16, 2019, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article125596923 

DELIBERATE AND COLD-BLOODED MURDER. (1864, May 5). The Toowoomba Chronicle and Queensland Advertiser (Qld. : 1861 - 1875), p. 3. Retrieved March 31, 2019, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article212788599 

ASSASINATION OF MR. OWEn, OF YoNDILLA. (1864, May 5). The Darling Downs Gazette and General Advertiser (Toowoomba, Qld. : 1858 - 1880), p. 3. Retrieved March 31, 2019, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article75512051 

TELEGRAPHIC NEWS. (1864, May 6). The Brisbane Courier (Qld. : 1864 - 1933), p. 2. Retrieved March 31, 2019, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article1258310 

TOOWOOMBA. (1864, May 7). The Brisbane Courier (Qld. : 1864 - 1933), p. 3. Retrieved March 31, 2019, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article1258334 

QUEENSLAND. (1864, May 7). The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), p. 4. Retrieved March 31, 2019, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article30939056 

Local and General News (1864, May 10). Queensland Times, Ipswich Herald and General Advertiser (Qld. : 1861 - 1908), p. 3. Retrieved March 31, 2019, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article123603723 

PARLIAMENT. (1864, May 13). The Brisbane Courier (Qld. : 1864 - 1933), p. 2. Retrieved April 16, 2019, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article1258445 

THE YANDILLA MURDER. (1864, May 17). The North Australian (Brisbane, Qld. : 1863 - 1865), p. 7. Retrieved April 9, 2019, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article77434883 

Supreme Court. (1864, July 14). The Toowoomba Chronicle and Queensland Advertiser (Qld. : 1861 - 1875), p. 2. Retrieved March 31, 2019, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article212786628 

OPENING OF THE NEW INDEPENDENT CHAPEL IN MARGARET STREET. (1864, May 26). The Darling Downs Gazette and General Advertiser (Toowoomba, Qld. : 1858 - 1880), p. 3. Retrieved April 17, 2019, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article75512228 

LOCAL AND DOMESTIC. (1864, July 14). The Darling Downs Gazette and General Advertiser (Toowoomba, Qld. : 1858 - 1880), p. 7. Retrieved April 16, 2019, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article75511743 

TOOWOOMBA CIRCUIT COURT. (1864, July 14). The Brisbane Courier (Qld. : 1864 - 1933), p. 2. Retrieved March 30, 2019, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article1259686 

TOOWOOMBA ASSIZES. (1864, July 16). The Brisbane Courier (Qld. : 1864 - 1933), p. 5. Retrieved March 30, 2019, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article1259748

The Darling Downs Gazette. TOOWOOMBA, THURSDAY, JULY 21st. (1864, July 21). The Darling Downs Gazette and General Advertiser (Toowoomba, Qld. : 1858 - 1880), p. 2. Retrieved April 16, 2019, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article75512648 

THE EXECUTION OF ANDREW RITCHIE, FOR THE WILFUL MURDER OF CHARLES OWEN, OF YANDILLA STATION. (1864, August 4). The Darling Downs Gazette and General Advertiser (Toowoomba, Qld. : 1858 - 1880), p. 3. Retrieved March 30, 2019, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article75512592 

DISTRICT NEWS. (1864, August 11). The Darling Downs Gazette and General Advertiser (Toowoomba, Qld. : 1858 - 1880), p. 3. Retrieved April 17, 2019, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article75511904 

EARLY HISTORY OF QUEENSLAND (1916, August 27). Truth (Brisbane, Qld. : 1900 - 1954), p. 9 (CITY EDITION). Retrieved April 9, 2019, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article201549529

'A Rough Ride' on the Great Ocean Road

For people who have been on the Great Ocean Road you may, like me, be enchanted by this piece of travel writing. Sometimes in the process of researching a topic on Trove you encounter an article that you find enjoyable, not just because the writer has provided information which will come in handy, but because their writing has a certain charm, a satisfying sentence construction and the suggestion that the writer would probably have been a good guest to have over for dinner.  This is one of those articles.

Today's post is a cleaned version of an article as it appeared in the Camperdown Chronicle of 17 December 1878 ... nothing more. I bumped into the article while reading around the story of the Loch Ard wreck.  It is piece of writing by the methodist preacher W. H. Fitchett. If one enters "W. H. Fitchett" into the Trove search engine there are more than 9,000 newspaper articles. As I go to publish I have looked at none of them.  This post is a first step into his writing, and possibly a last one. With so much to read and write I would not want to commit to return to Mr Fitchett. I have other threads which are requesting my attention.

 I have highlighted sections from each paragraph that I particularly enjoyed.

A Rough Ride.
BY THE REV. W. H. FITCHETT, B.A.
WESLEYAN SPECTATOR.

Nature abhors monotony, as she is said to abhor a vacuum, and all sensible and busy Men will agree with Nature; for a monotony, whether of rest or of work, is alike unwholesome and unbearable. Idleness is only tolerable when alternated with seasons of busy work; and work can be energetic and successful only when sandwiched betwixt substantial slices of rest. Many of the American divines shut up their churches altogether for two months out of every twelve, and dismiss their congregations to a theological fast, or to such casual provender as they can pick up at other churches. Dr. Barker, of the City Temple, has just been trying the same experiment in England. The theory is that a congregation will enjoy its regular diet of sermons all the better when it has been compelled to do without them for a couple of months. One would imagine that there would be a considerable risk of the hearers making the discovery of how easy it is to exist without sermons at all, and never coming back again. Our Victorian churches give us the modest allowance of one Sunday in the year as a rest; and though many of our ministers cherish the superstition that their circuits would cease to exist if they left them for a fortnight, and all things be resolved into mere chaos, those of us who have made the experiment know that we are much less necessary to the existence and happiness of our churches than we fondly imagine we are. Nay, we have made the discovery that our circuits, like our wives, value us all the more for being compelled occasionally to do without us. It is scarcely an exaggeration, too, to say that regular and moderately frequent intervals of rest would add five years of working life to us all. In the interests of the Worn-out Preachers' Fund, therefore every Methodist preacher ought to be compelled by a vote of the Conference to deny himself and take his annual holiday.

With a light heart and a heavy valise, I stepped into the train on a Monday morning, a few weeks ago, for a run across country to Ballarat. Did ever a husband start on a journey of fifty miles without being compelled by his anxious wife to drag after him a world of utterly superfluous garments sufficient for an expedition to the North Pole? Although on pleasure bent, being like John Gilpin's wife "of a frugal mind," I took a second-class ticket for the journey. These cross-country trains, however, have only one carriage, into which all comers are packed. The day was hot, the carriage was full, and the mingled odours of bad tobacco and worse beer, of dirty clothes and perspiring feet, of opium-eating Chinamen and onion-flavored tramps, proved quite too much for my experiment in frugality, and I was glad to buy my way back in a carriage in which I could at least breathe. A day was spent in Ballarat with C ——, the second of the party—most genial of Scotchmen and best of friends— and was devoted to a settlement of the solemn question, which of us was the best croquet player. Six and a half lengthy games left the important matter undecided, or rather left each of us with the secret conviction that we could beat the other hopelessly but for misfortune and the perversity of the balls! Wednesday found us on the Western line, speeding through the pleasant and fertile country beyond Geelong. At Winchelsea the ladies and children of the party branched off to Lorne, and the two of us, reduced to temporary batchelorhood, but bearing our widowed condition with much fortitude, rattled on by train to Colac, and thence by coach to Camperdown, where S——, the third member of the party, took possession of us. Our hope had been, in the simplicity of our hearts, to drive from Camperdown to the scene of the Loch Ard wreck, and thence, sitting at ease in our buggy, to follow the coast to Cape Otway, the southern extremity of Australia, and to reach home by Apollo Bay. The hope of driving along this line of coast, however, soon exhaled as our knowledge of it increased, and under the stress of warning about creeks, rivers, quicksands, impassable forests and perpendicular cliffs, it seemed as if nothing short of swimming or hiring a balloon would take us round. S—— , however, was rich in horses and men, and richer still in a generosity and organising skill that made him willing and able to employ his resources for our relief. He took charge of the travelling arrangements, and but for him the expedition would have been impossible, or possible only at a cost which would have put it hopelessly out of our reach.

Two days were spent in seeing the country round Camperdown, and in watching the busy spectacle of sheep-washing and shearing on a first-class station. Some of the fairest scenery of a certain kind in Australia, lies within fifty miles of Camperdown. It is rich in lakes — well-nigh a score, set like glittering patches of silver in the frame of the undulating landscape, being visible from one point. The clear atmosphere, the wide, far-reaching plains, all mottled, park-like, with trees, and stained with the deep and exquisite green of spring, give the eye the delight which comes of harmonious colouring, and wide, free sea-like space. And all around the sweep of the horizon, as though at once to accentuate and relieve the monotony of more space, and showing sharp and clear in perfect outline against the azure of the unclouded sky, rise isolated and graceful hills, the Cloven Hills, Mount Elephant, Mount Shadwell, Mount Leura, &c.; while far away to the north-east, the purple line of the Grampians stands like a wall against the sky. The country here is wonderfully rich and fertile; but over all these wide plains, art has been the handmaid of nature. The land has been elaborately cleared, drained, fenced, planted with rich grasses, and studded with plantations of forest trees. Nothing is further from the truth than the cry, invented by demagogues, and believed in by their dupes, that the great landholders have done nothing to improve their estates. On one station over which we passed, in addition to miles of stately quickset hedges, and a costly system of surface drainage, thousands of pounds have been spent in weaving a network of underground pipes, forming a complete water system for the whole station, and conveying the precious fluid to every paddock. On another station wide belts of plantation stretched for miles across the otherwise treeless plains, and completely changed the face of the country. It seems probable, indeed, that the climate of the country will be perceptibly modified by the extent to which tree planting is being carried out in the district. And a landholder who increases the carrying capacity of his estate three-fold by methods like these is adding to the wealth of the State as certainly as the miner who extracts the rough ore from the rocks, or the manufacturer who fashions it to the service of commerce. 

We slept two nights under the hospitable roof of a house poised high above the twin lakes of Mount Leura. The scene spread beneath this house is of the rarest beauty. The lake is a wide, perfectly symmetrical sweep of water, set in a ring of lofty, sloping banks-a mirror for the drifting clouds overhead, and reflecting every changing mood of the day--now glittering with the slant rays of the early sun, now darkening under the fading light and deepening shadow of evening, and yet again [mimicking] with a hundred dancing fires on its dark and watery firmament the star-thronged deep of night. Sinking far below the level of the nearer lake we catch a glimpse of the sister sheet. The two lakes lie within the sweep of the one mighty crater, and are parted only by a long, narrow wall of earth; yet one is lifted high above the other, and the waters of the two lakes are quite distinct in taste. We were very fortunate in our experiences here, as one of the very prettiest of natural phenomenon was performed as if for our private and exclusive delectation. The house stood on a lofty and narrow ridge that sloped gently downwards to the east. The sun was setting; a shower had just swept over the lake; the air was yet full of the falling drops, that glittered like descending pearls in the setting sun; and, exactly spanning the ridge, was a low, but gorgeous rainbow, the brilliant lines of many colored fire, perfectly defined throughout, seeming only a stone's throw distant; while high up in the sky, sweeping over our heads with vaster curve, but burning with fainter fire, was its double. 

After wavering for a day or two, we set off on Saturday for our coast trip, our plan being to spend Sunday at Glenample, the scene of the wreck, thence to take to the saddle and ride through the Otway range to Cape Otway, and to follow the coast round to Louti Bay. We were well equipped, S——, a whip of the first order, driving a pair of powerful horses, and a room, with a relay of three more, riding behind. A smart drive soon carried us past Cobden, and at once the civilised world seemed left behind us. It is unnecessary to describe the scenery on this road, for the sufficient reason that, except in very rare patches, there is none. Gloomy forest hills, and still gloomier valleys, spotted with quaking morasses, called "grass tree flats," and all crossed by a muddy winding track which would have made travelling impossible, except to horses as good or intolerable, except to spirits as gay and cheerful as ours. The gloomy road was no without its humors, however, for us ; perhaps because we were in that happy mood which invests the whole world with gaiety. We laughed on any provocation, or on none at all. A native bear, for example, clinging half-way up a tree, in his dark grey suit tipped with black, and gazing at us with an owl-like solemnity that Lord Burleigh himself might have envied, was found to have a quaintly clerical look, which awoke shouts of laughter. A dog rushed out of a wayside house to protest against us; his energy and wrath were such that he seemed to be all hair and bark, and could adequately express his feelings onlyby executing, at brief intervals, a series of wild revolutions round his own tail. The spectacle of a dog, in a tempest of barks, and racing at full speed, yet stopping to revolve every thirty seconds on his own axis, was exquisitely absurd. C----- produced the unpardonable joke that this animal would be very useful in case of bushrangers, as he was a good revolver. Threepence had been clubbed together as a premium for the best joke that could be invented on the road and this was at once handed to him. It must be confessed, however, that this imaginary threepence changed hands often during the trip. We got a deal of amusement out of the animal life we met with. No dweller in the city could imagine how much of amazement a country cow can succeed in squeezing, into its countenance when any unaccustomed spectacle is suddenly presented to it. How they did stare at us. Each beast we passed seemed to resolve itself into a mere horned and tailed note of interrogation, have been photographed. A perambulator, that seemed strangely out of place under the rough forest trees, stood on the edge of the road, with a baby in it. A young and motherly cow stood near, gazing upon it with a look of the most intense surprise and curiosity, and was no doubt meditating, in its bovine fashion, on the mystery of this unequal world, which does not provide perambulators for calves. 

We reached Glenample as the day was ending, and though two of us were absolute strangers, we were received with the most generous and unquestionable hospitality. The coast scenery here, as we discovered in our little rambles the next day, is absolutely unique. All the wealth of descriptive energy, and of pictorial art expended by the papers upon the scene of the wreck, yet leaves it undepicted and undescribed. Along the line of many miles the coast is absolutely beachless or nearly so; and consists of perpendicular cliffs of a soft, shady, light-colored sandstone. For miles on each side of the spot, where the Loch Ard struck, the sea rolls to the base of these cliffs without a patch of sandy beach, save at the spot where Pearce and Miss Carmichael landed. The nature of the cliffs has permitted the sea just to take what liberties it pleased with the shore. The land is accordingly scored with a maze of inlets, each inlet resembling a narrow lane of water flowing betwixt parallel walls of rock, rising 150 feet sheer from the water's edge ; and the watery lane ends abruptly at the foot of a transverse wall of cliff. A few miles to the south, and immediately below Glenample homestead, the inlets widen into little bays, and then there comes a stretch of sandy beach betwixt the cliffs and the sea. A long, tusk of rock, nearly 200 feet high, is thrust abruptly across the end of the beach nearest the wreck, deep into the sea, and brings your seaside promenade to a sudden end. But a tunnel has been cut for some 30 yards through this rocky wall, and opens to the eye and foot an exquisite little bay, in which stands a family party of gigantic obelisks, deep in the embrace of the yeasty waves. These obelisks are a most striking feature of this part of the coast. They arc of the full height of the land, say 150 feet from the level sea to the summit, but stand clear out from the coast itself. They seem like a line of Titanic sentinels, standing far out on the glassy floor of the sea, and keeping watch against some hostile fleet not yet risen above the horizon of the west. They are of all shapes; one is slender and symmetrical as a modern lighthouse; another is cowled like a monk; another has a core piercing right through its crown, and the setting sun pours through the opening a shaft of crimson fire till it resembles the glowing eye-ball of a Cyclops. The whole shore line has a weird and strangely peopled look from this array of stately, slender, and
lofty pillars. The shore, too, is pierced with mysterious caves. At one spot is shown you a "blowhole," a deep black chasm in the soil, an eighth of a mile from the edge of the sea; yet here, a hundred feet down, the waters are seething and moaning in eternal unrest, and racing mysterious channels yet farther inland. This is, perhaps, the most convenient spot for any one wanting to commit suicide in Victoria. The scenery on the whole is wonderfully picturesque and striking. If some enterprising showman could only detach a few miles of this part of the coast, and tow it down to the neighborhood of Queenscliff, and anchor it there, it would be reckoned one of the most wonderful sights in Australia.